6  August

When morning broke, we found ourselves sat in a clatter trap Jeep cutting through the eerie silence along Highway 10, bones rattling, shattering the peculiar serenity of the West Texas badlands.  In the rear-view mirror, the rays of the sun curving around the Earth, passing through thicker striations of atmosphere scattered to give us a blazing spectrum of reds and pinks.  Marbling in the echo chamber above, the spectrally pure light left little more than a downcast glow in the cabin, hardly illuminating the gauges on the dashboard which had long become uncommunicative.  The overhead lamp, given to intermittent blackouts, had rendered the crumpled road map in AG’s hands useless and the utter loneliness of these parts did well to keep our mouths closed.  For miles on end, the Boundary Layer ahead of us was engulfed in shadows, nothing appearing on the horizon but an immense, widening sky, intermittently dappled by cloud cover here and there. 

We’d been clamoring along for hours, headed slightly southward, relentlessly upsetting the countryside, stopping only for the occasional service station.  Mainly for petrol, mainly for the transitory contact with other travelers making their own tracks along these dirty highways.  Well-amphetimined truck drivers careening along, desperate to fill red-eye deliveries of whatever.  Schizophrenic drifters tittering about, panic stricken for the next motel and the next nervous breakdown.  Chain-smoking salesmen lying in wait, prowling for the next little score to perpetuate a lavish lifestyle of Class B gin and cash register perfumery.  On and on, the compendium of delightful characters appeared limitless, each story better than the next.  Who they were at home we could never be certain but it was safe to assume each of them had killed before.

With the tank gasping on what fumes remained, we managed to maneuver the deathtrap to a relative idle alongside the furthest island we knew of in this part of the country.  This would be the last stop before the final push deeper into the Chihuahuan Desert.  Listening to the bleating motor hiss and quaver as it attempted to cool itself, I thought back to the early hours of the day and the harsh fluorescent lighting of the airport basement.  With a wink of his beady eye and a shake of his two sweaty hands, the well-pomaded man lurking behind the rental counter had assured us this was the best transport available, custom designed for a 600-mile trudge into the overheated wastelands of the American Southwest.  Blind and greedy stare, hollowed out look and mouth always busy, he had all the qualities of a man you should trust.  And now, here we were with this vehicle on its last leg and, soon enough, no one around for miles to hear our screams.  AG walked the pavement, stretching her legs and keeping an eye on a load of seedy, potato-looking children loitering about.  I filled the tank, leery over both the distance left to go and the tiny-handed man stood at the till wearing only a vest made from the teeth of some small animal.

By now, the sun was making its way well overhead, illuminating everything, burning out the eyes of everyone on the motorways.  We had made these two-day suicide drives before.  Into the Bayous of Louisiana and through the deserts of New Mexico we had trekked, only to make an overnight turn around.  But, this one was something different.  The road stretching out before us appeared endless.  Time passed at a crawl.  And, we had abandoned all hope of arrival.  When I was young, I despised any and all expeditions into the barren regions.  The listless hours of watching nothingness speed by the window, the relentless sounds of 60’s protest music crackling from the speakers, the nauseating smell of overheated plastic.  It was all a sort of purgatory.  But sometimes, as the past moves further afield, something strange begins to happen.  Our ideas about things begin to change and a more hallowed, sentimental quality comes to define our recollections.  What was once unremarkable soon becomes something entirely different.  And like that, these arid landscapes had become at once mysterious and nostalgic.

Outside the dusty windshield, open plains spread out before us.  Swaying blond prairieland spotted with Pinyon Pines and Alligator Junipers came and went.  As we passed a group of foraging pronghorn antelope, AG pointed nobly to the south.  At last, the line on the horizon had begun to change.  Far away, crags faintly rose above the ground then disappeared.  Any coolness that might have lingered in the air had been melted away into pools of water shimmering just out of reach on the asphalt.  And, as Brian Jonestown Massacre played intermittently at the whims of the satellite, we somehow managed to coax the jalopy onward.  On these journeys, even the slightest change of scenery can be enough to keep you from topping yourself, at least for a few more miles anyway. 

Not long after we turned from Highway 67 onto Route 90, the high hills of the Trans-Pecos slowly began to grow in front of us.  Soon, we found ourselves among tall yellow grasses and gently sloping terrain.  This was the periphery of the borderlands.  Traversing across the plain, it was difficult not to get lost in the powerful vastness of the landscape.  From time to time we stopped to photograph the panorama and the unique way the light fell over it all.  But, film is never enough.  Neither are words.  Exhausted from the distance and oppressed from the heat, the vehicle rattled along at a steady, if not tenuous, pace for what seemed like another thousand miles until, at last, coming into view at the side of the road was the first sign that our journey was nearing an end.  Subtly breaking up the landscape, a billboard stood reading, “Welcome to Marfa”.


The stark white architecture of the city, brilliant in a wash of sunlight, illuminated the somber, deserted streets with a solitary tone. The angular late afternoon shadows shifting across the bleached out walls lent to the place a nostalgic celluloid quality.  There was a sort of quietude about it all, the type you might expect in a place like this.  Still, it seemed that, somewhere just out of sight, as the reflections coming off our car passed by, something was teeming beneath the surface.  Some anonymous and gripping serial dramas were unfolding among the lives that went on here.  But, we could never be a part of them.  Transient, on the way to somewhere else, we were only passing through.  Occasionally, there were faint signs of life like the shape of a car moving in the distance or a boot and cowboy hat combination ambling slowly along on the way to wherever.  But, mostly, the place felt like a ghost town. 

One by one, landmarks of which we had been told came and went, The Thunderbird Hotel, The Presidio, Saint Mary’s Catholic Church, all blending together with the landscape in striking composition.  At the town’s lone traffic light, an eddy of Black-Throated Sparrows, swirled to a frenzy overhead then disappeared southward out toward the Mexican Plateau.  A piebald Whippet sat at the edge of the pedestrian crossing, waiting patiently for the light to change.  Observing in disapproval, the hound looked on as a delicate woman stood by, balancing a hamper of laundry atop her head and shrieking at what I could only assume to be her porter bent low beneath a Datsun, frantically attempting to retrieve a cigarette.  Together, the three of us watched this grim controversy unfold until the light turned and there was nothing left to do but continue on.  I nodded to the dog and we made our way back out onto the highway.

Just outside of town, as Route 67 began to carry further down toward Ojinaga, Spartans and Vagabonds lay strewn across the land, some painted sky-blue, some orange, others pink. Each matching the nuanced sky, each floating in their own space like ships on a desert sea.  Sioux-style Teepees and Mongolian Yurts drifted quietly, barely disturbing the tranquility that embodied the space.  Hidden away on this tawny piece of Chihuahuan grasslands, El Cosmico served as a waypoint for wanderers from around the globe, offering shelter to nomads and ego-maniacal pop singers for nearly seven years.  But, upon our arrival, not a soul was to be seen. 

With feet unsteady, we stumbled out of the still-quaking utility vehicle clinging to the fins of a nearby Pursuit Special until sensation slowly began to return. Ahead, a shifting earthen pathway led deeper into the grounds, weaving in among the campsite’s silent structures.  Several wood burning tubs sat drained of water, their disused fuel stacked neatly beside.  The slings of a hammock grove hung abandoned, beneath them a natural floor littered with antiquated travel journals.  An outdoor kitchen stood deserted, wafts of creosote and oak coming and going.  On the table lay a notebook, the name “Montazano” inscribed on its flyleaf. Inside unfolded the impenetrable works of some fantastically lonely desert poet. I stood for what seemed like hours trying desperately to decipher the puzzle box before me, certain the answer to any question I ever had would be found somewhere within these pages. And yet, I understood none of it. It was certain. These verses would someday be legend.

Suddenly, there appeared a grievous figure hovering on the horizon. A malevolent cherub emerging from the embers of some medieval Parisian auto-da-fé. The creature loomed, draped in soul-destroying array. Jackboots, tattered olive drab flight suit, cataclysmal strands of greased down hair, tonic bottle glasses, and an overalll kind of “mug me” look.  As it neared, I could just make out what appeared to be a clotted, sooty combination of baby powder and Colombian extract dotting its face.  Its physiognomy carried a frenzied, mournful quality like a child not getting enough meat pie. And, at once I knew the terrifying face of Monatzano. I quickly hurled the bizarre codex back onto the table, grabbed AG by the hand and made way back to the path.  She would never know just how close to the gates of Hell she had come.


We scrambled into the relative safety of a nearby lobby house, bolting the door behind us.  Eyes and lungs aching, we doubled over against the wall, our bodies splayed against the plaster. Asphyxiating where we stood, we struggled to keep our breathing quiet. Nauseated, we listened for the sound of the monster’s footsteps. But, they never came. Then something strange happened.. Idyllic visions set in, nights sat round a campfire watching sparks ascend into a velvet sky over some remote part.  Thoughts of the terror that loomed outside the door quickly vanished.  And, we became enveloped in a cloud of burning Piñon vapor. Generalized Hypoxia had set in. Reconciled to this new solace, we turned only to find the place teeming with temporary denizens all sat nursing coffee, intently studying their respective mobiles and occasionally casting wary glances in our direction. A new kind of horror.  We poured ourselves some house blend and checked in.

­­­­­­­----- From ‘round here?

­­­­­­­----- East.

I lied.

With a sidelong glare, the girl pointed to the doorway.

Back outside, all signs of humanity receded once again.  Sometimes, the chirp of a single cricket tucked away in a tangle of Encelia could be heard or a load of cans would rattle together for some unexplained reason. But, even here, the prevailing theme remained.  Silence.  That, along with a sense that we had arrived late of something monumental.  We crawled inside our teepee, collapsed onto the bed and began staring through the open smoke flaps at the clouds floating by, occasionally talking, occasionally listening quietly to the canvas swaying back and forth.  In this moment, the solitude was just enough.  Back in the world, they’ll tell you to chase other people’s contentment, to always move in the direction of something more.  But, to hell with it all.  In the end, who even likes anyone else, much less wants to share a life or a vacation with any of them?  In this place, removed from everything, there was nothing left to do but watch the sky and notice.


When it was nearly time to set off I found myself forced outside, sat on a wicker stool, staring into space. Inside, through shafts of sunlight, moved a banshee, trying on one ensemble, then another, cursing my name and my ideas. In the distance, the last rattles of a death match could be heard taking place between a horde of lusty cicadas and a blood-thirsty jackal.  Or, maybe it was a Chupacabra.  These things are difficult to know.  I sat back and gazed up at the ocean of blue above, picturing myself perilously clung to the side of the Earth.  The sparse, orange-bellied clouds hung low.  A cowman strolled past with a crate of Mexican beer slung over his shoulder.  A coyote howled.  In one day’s drive, we were half a world away.


At the edge of town lay the only other place showing any proof of life, a fortunate turn as hunger was beginning to push us to the edge of reason, compelling us to say things we could never recant.  Through the screen door, we found ourselves in a diner with all the grimy character of some mid-century desert biopic.  The scene was all but empty outside of a solitary man nursing a bottle, his Stetson pulled low to a point that could only be described as inconvenient.  Rays from the four o’clock sun filtered through filmy windows, casting slivers of light arbitrarily across the smoky haze that hung throughout the cantina.  La Liga broadcast silently on the television and the rattle and hum of the fans overhead were the only perceptible sounds.  As the wooden frame of the door crashed behind us, a gum-smacking server was immediately sent into a feverish fit of muttering and mumbling to herself.  With all the bravery of lions, we seated ourselves.  The hate-filled waiter approached.  I would rather drink gasoline directly from the nozzle than speak with you.  Not without difficulty, we placed our order then watched, bemused, as the scowling server walked away, still murmuring to herself.  There was a sense she might have been historically unpleasant.

This was different than the place I had read about in all of the high-fashion magazines.  In this town, there were no turtlenecks, sipping artisan cocktails, blathering on about an avant-garde art show the previous night.  There were no dirty beards dripping of lentil soup, sleeves rolled up, butchering the already intolerable Charles Bukowski.  No gratuitous displays of spirit crushing geometry doing your head in, making you uncomfortable with your place in modern life.  This was better.  This was what it was like to live and die in West Texas.  Or, something.

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We drove west, past the cemetery at the edge of town and out until there was nothing left on the horizon but empty highway carving up the stark physiognomy of the flatlands.  With Interpol’s El Pintor crackling through the speakers, we made our way across the desert, watching the blue mesas poking above the distant line to the north.  To the south, tethered Aerostat Radar balloons were launching skyward as a cloud system coming up from the steppes of Chihuahua began to creep along the arc of the Earth.   I wondered about life in the silent outposts down this way.  The rotting fences, the broken-down campers, the collapsed roofs, the buildings overgrown with verdure whose cracking plaster walls were beginning to crumble inward.  There was something about it all that I could not escape. 

Just outside the town of Valentine, in an otherwise empty basin, a tiny box sat alone on the south edge of the highway.  Prada Marfa, the famed installation of Scandinavian artists Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset, had stood as a modern effigy to the notion of the insidious gentrification of wherever.  But by now, cracks lined the panes of glass on the structure’s façade.  Graffiti had been whitewashed from its exterior walls.  And, its current general meaning was probably something different.  Maybe it was now something closer to a tribute to nature’s preference for entropy.  Or, maybe gentrification is just another form of entropy.  Who can ever know?


Sitting on a pair of train tracks extending away to the east and west, we watched tourists come and go, juxtaposed against the backdrop of the open desert.  We listened as each of their voices were inevitably lost, first drowned out by intermittent cars speeding by, then gently blown across the plain in the wake of their slipstream.  A curious thing about travel, often there are memorable visual scenes that carry with you long after you’ve gone.  They seem to take on a character of their own, distinguished by a certain atmospheric sensation.  Lately, on these expeditions into the desert, it had been the way the sun hung low in the sky, the angles of incidence with which it illuminated a lonely petrol station, a neglected shanty or some other long derelict architecture.  The way the shadows grew long as the pace of twilight quickened.  These things coupled with that sense of urgency to get back on the road, the anxiety of not being left behind.  It all contributed to the unsettled mood that comes with wayfairing.

Maybe you will have been fortunate enough to have walked the streets of some of the world’s most remarkable cities.  And, maybe you will have seen some of the world’s most wondrous natural spectacles.  And, if you’ve only known the life of the solitary traveler, the memories you acquire through whatever roads you take, they will always be for you alone, never wholly describable to the hearts and minds of anyone else.  The feeling of standing, for the first time, on the quays of that surreal labyrinth known as Venice, staring out across the green waters of her lagoon.  The sensation of wandering lost down the backstreet corridors of Paris, suddenly finding yourself among the stacks of a quiet little bookshop holding a first edition of Les Travailleurs de la Mer.  The recollection of dining in a café at dusk in the Hotel Continental in Lausanne, watching the tourists disembark from the train station as the clouds roll in off Lake Geneva.  The sights and sounds of each of these places you may be able to recall in an instant.  They are all treasured memories that you will take with you wherever you go.  But, no one else can know them.  No one else can comprehend what it was like to be there, in those places, in those moments.  No one can articulate the brilliance of a certain sunset that you have witnessed while standing by yourself in an apparently humble field of poppies or the magnificence of a view stolen from a mountain peak to which you have fought and clawed and wheezed your way alone.  But, those seemingly small instances along with the sensations that tend to outlast the rest become something else when they are shared, when they serve as the backdrop to the individual stood before you or, better so, alongside you.  To have another consciousness with which you can witness these experiences is without measure.  To have that other being who can later recall, in an instant, what it was like to be there is a priceless thing.  The unbreakable bond of experience is something to hold dear.  Some of your fondest memories will still consist of those indescribable landscapes and the welcome trepidation that come with the journey.  Only now, with a fleeting glance or a quiet whisper, you can know they are understood by another.  When you think back on the time you stood in the freezing bluster as it lashed across the swells, whipping some untamed coast in the Pacific Northwest, your face sandblasted in the torrent of whirlwinds and rain, you will always know there was someone else who knows exactly those same extraordinary hours.  Or, when you recall the warmth and community of a tiny camping lodge and mercantile nestled among the redwoods along the Cabrillo Highway in Big Sur, you can always know there is another who shares with you that same place in time. 

We watched the last of the cars pull away and sat for a few moments until another caravan rolled to a stop along the side of the road.  Our time here had passed.  Now it belonged to them.  With that, we turned back toward the little town with a strange connection to Fyodor Dostoevsky and The Brothers Karamazov. 


By now, Marfa had begun to come to life, but only just. Street urchins, brooders and costermongers hovered.  Along the roadside, a conglomeration of makeshift tents huddled together, sheltered from the low western sun by a disused Blue Bird school bus. A shanty bazaar. To one side, a small nondescript stand sat unbothered, its tables haphazardly adorned with indigenous flora. Through an electrolarynx, the gentleman proprietor slowly began to peddle his wares. Frequently pausing to replace the device in his one functional hand with the next item up for display, the man trembled as he described each seedling.  We purchased a False Rose of Jericho and asked of the distance we had left to go. Looking toward the sky and, with a foreboding look, the man waved quickly in the way we should go.  It was only then that we noticed the landscape around us beginning to darken. Hurriedly, we made our way back to the road and pointed the clanger northward.

Striking out across the flat plain once again, we passed beneath a brilliant, swirling expanse of blue, purple and orange, the pavement stretching in front of our vehicle tapering to a small speck at the foot of a looming black and grey silhouette.  The shadowy contours of a distant mountain range were visible yet fading from view as the night began to retake everything around us.  We arrived at the sleepy mountain village of Fort Davis just as her street lights were beginning to burn and her shops were locking their doors up tight.  Situated on the southeastern-most slopes of the Davis Mountains, the town was once an outpost protecting emigrants, freighters, mail coaches, and travelers hoping to reach the gold fields of California via the San Antonio-El Paso Road.  Tonight, it was the key junction for which we had been searching.  It was here that the highway branched off West, taking us higher into the range. 

Pushing further upward into the bluish haze, in the dwindling light, AG pointed to something in the forest, some incongruous movement that didn’t quite fit with the surroundings.  Slowing the car, we began to catch traces of silhouettes crouching among the blacked-out trees, slowly stalking along the slopes.  At the sight of our headlights these gaunt frames would quickly disappear back into the thicket waiting for the shroud of night to shield them once again.  In every subtle movement, these mysterious figures moved in a menacing fashion.  They were La Migra. Hunters of men, women and children, combing the mountainsides, closing in on some unseen quarry.  Cracking the windows, we listened out for the screams but they never came. 

The road snaked its way through the narrow pass, switching east then west, careering along precipitous cliff sides and dropping into deep ravines.  In the narrow sliver of visibility afforded by the head lamps, the field of view shifted relentlessly from sheer rock faces to inky night sky and then back again.   We found ourselves still peering into the shadowy woodland, trying to articulate any recognizable form.  But, night on the ground had become too murky. 

When the vehicle finally knocked to a stop, we found ourselves at the top of Mount Locke. There was no longer any sound.  The silence of the mountainside moved in once again. Here, we would wait. I could just make out the faint sounds of footsteps. We peered through the blackened windshield until we could just delineate some shiftless variation moving just ahead. Crossing the path ahead of our vehicle, a line of corpse-like bodies shuffled along, noiselessly lumbering toward some unseen ordination.  A midnight occult, taking part in a sinister ritual.   Silently, we waited for the ghoulish cavalcade to pass then furtively joined the line, hoping to go unnoticed.  Solemnly, the train entered a rounded amphitheatre, lit only by a muted collection of red lanterns arranged in a circular pattern. Above our heads, a canopy of stars blazed fiery against a black night sky.  Saturn glowed, the Milky Way cut a swath straight across, and Arcturus shimmered moderately high in the starry dome.  All the while, the waxing crescent moon kept its light subtle, careful not to disturb the rest of it all.  We had come all this way for the darkness.

It was in this place that humankind discovered the atmosphere of Saturn’s moon Titan, the first detection of an atmosphere for any moon in the solar system.  It was here that, Miranda, the smallest of Jupiter’s five major satellites was first observed.  Here, we devised a system for measuring the colors of stars and had begun to examine more than one million galaxies to probe the nature of dark energy as it forced the universe to expand faster at its edges.  From atop this mountain, the telescopes of the McDonald Observatory brought binary stars, globular clusters, galaxies, nebulae, planets and moons of planets all within our reach.

We are linked to the skies.  We owe our existence to the stars.  They create the elementary particles from which we are formed and illuminate the dark veil of our nights, guiding us home across deserts and oceans.  They are dutiful, unsung sentinels holding constant vigil over us as we toil about in our tiny little lives.  The boundlessness and the uncertainty that lie behind the stellar tapestry they create is staggering.  Yet it is the very abstruse nature of it all that commands our curiosity.  For millennia, the human mind has endeavored to understand the secrets of the heavens.  Civilizations have devised countless machinations attempting to make sense of the night sky.  Its origins as well as its finality have existed as a mysterious thread, weaving its way through generations on end.  From the earliest of days, our ancient ancestors turned their gaze to the sky with wonder, living out their lives,  forging their pathways, writing their narratives, and constructing their legends in accordance with the heavens.  Thus, our histories, our myths, and our futures are inextricably interwoven with the movements of the firmament. 

Out here, in one of the last places where mankind could look up and see the night just as those who came before once did, we witnessed the entire astral canvas spangled with stars.  Out here, far away from the world we had always known, we gazed upon just a tiny splinter of our galaxy.  Thousands of suns.  Thousands of worlds.  Thousands of possibilities.  So much more than we could ever see in one lifetime, so much more than we could ever fathom in a million.  But these tiny glimpses, they filled us with such immense reverence and wonderment.  It was enough. 

Whether it’s all down to a clockwork universe fulfilling its pre-determined destiny or a probabilistic model in which everything is resolved by likelihoods, in the end, it all fits together so perfectly to give us what we have here and now. And, as I looked up into the deafening quiet of that celestial sphere, I didn’t know how not to believe there was something so much greater than myself, something so beyond my comprehension that is making all of this work. 

Nevermind that signals decrease massively over distance and all that.  But, consider the waves that do make it past our ionosphere, the ones that are not refracted directly back to Earth as skywave.  These signals, lost to us forever, carry transmissions too often indicative of a species perpetually whinging about the problems it has created for itself, constantly placing itself at the center of all things.  But beyond all of this, past the invisible borders we have fabricated, past the social constructs we've somehow conceived, past all of the running and jumping and fighting amongst ourselves, we are all part of a connected cosmic system.  Part earth.  Part star.  We are humble reflections of a hereditary sky from which we all come and under which we all live.  And as such, we were meant to be proper stewards of this quantum of nature and everything on it.   


7 August

Lost somewhere amid those deep, bright days, another cupola of low-sun hues arced high above our heads.  A magnificent array of scarlet, saffron and rose blending together to become just another quiet morning of just another quiet summer of just another quiet year.  Surrounded by backlit sailcloth, we looked out one last time through the smoke flaps at that perfect sky floating past.  The heat of the sun held fixed behind an invisible lens, keeping the air around us cool.  The limpid breeze down from the mountains carried with it intricate reports of the sweeping, high-desert vistas it had crossed.  Stepping outside, I found myself stood in a sort of muted deference.  Descending toward the Earth, the colors of the atmosphere traversed the range, fading from vivid to paler tints, encircling the horizon from east to west and back again.  It was an impeccably formed spectacle.   

But, subtle changes in light and air soon became increasingly apparent, giving indications of how quickly such scenes pass.  Before long, the sun had progressed along the ecliptic, transposing the colors of morning into intense chrome-yellows and golds then, eventually, into an unyielding deep blue.  The heat had broken through with unmatched ferocity.  And, the steady sounds of a tranquil desert soon gave way to the din of footsteps tripping over themselves, a shoddy internal combustion engine gurgling away and the faint groaning of a miserable cowman. 


The streets of Marfa had gone dead once again.  That dusty little outpost in the barrens of West Texas had returned to insulating itself from all the troubles of the outside world.  Through mountain gaps and across windswept valleys, all the highways that lead into this one stoplight town remained empty.  We stood on the city’s eerie streets, staring at our shadows and shopping the empty window displays that lined the sidewalks.  We drove to the Hotel Paisano to search for James Dean but he never showed.  There was nothing here.  And, it was perfect.

AG disappeared into the hotel to buy a deck of playing cards for the road.  I waited outside on the corner, flipping the pages of a tattered dime store novel, fidgeting with a cigarette lighter I had learned to carry from years of watching spy films.  Minutes passed, the rasp of the flint and hinge the only sounds echoing down the street.  But, then just as Raskolnikov was inserting his axe into Ivanovna's nefarious little head, there was a clamor.  A tangle of orange pelt rose from a collection of garbage bins on the corner opposite.  It was some sort of man and somehow it had started back to life.  Swiveling about as if independent from its body, the fiery mop turned in my direction.  We stood facing one another for ages, neither speaking a word.  Each weighing the mettle of the other.  At last, the drifter beckoned and, despite my best efforts, I soon found myself stood before him.  At close range, the figure was dressed in regimental rags.  His gnarled legs and worn feet supported a stumpy body hunched over a blackened pot filled with what I chose to believe was warm tsampa.  His weathered face was adorned with a moustache of the Napoleonic Hussar style.  From some unknown nether-region, the vagabond manufactured a Benson and Hedges, the longest of all cigarettes.  It’s also the smartest financial choice if you’re looking to kill yourself in the least cost-efficient way.  I lit his smoke and we stood in dead awkward silence, surveying the road and, at the end of it, the moon still visible.  Momentarily, the vagrant began to speak.

­­­­­­­----- You’re like the son I never had.

His heroic moustache flapped valiantly in the wind.

----- Yeah, I know.

I nodded, pensively surveying the city while he toked on his 120mm looking all to briefly like the Man with No Name.  An unknown number of uncomfortable moments passed until the drifter spoke once again.

----- Hell, maybe the only thing left to do is make the world a little less lonely for everyone else.

A flash of bronze indicated he was smiling.  And, immediately I made plans to leave.  Yet, before I could escape, the vagrant reached out.  In his claw hand, he held what appeared to be a crumpled piece of coated magazine paper.  As I am a tender and caring man, I took the document from his caked talon.  But, not without trepidation.  There was an uncanny familiarity to him, as if I had known him in another time. Wordlessly, I walked away, wrinkling the paper into my back pocket..  As we left town, a frail woman sat in a window frame. Sad to see us leave, she casually, flicked “le bras d’honneur” in our direction. 



Floating like untethered thunderheads, the Davis Mountains hovered High above the desert floor.  In the dark of night, there was little topography outside the narrow strip of road winding before us.  But in daylight, the sun revealed the full breadth of the range, offering a dramatic contrast to the flatness of its sweeping environs.  Nearing the massif, rising green slopes became visible, their faces subtly accentuated by oak and pine.  Rocky spires escalated to form craggy peaks.  Carpets of golden grasslands wandered through the valleys between them.      

In Fort Davis, we stopped at a tourist camp to replenish our provisions in the village market then followed the highway once again as it disappeared back into the isolation of the mountains.  The woodlands were hushed.  There was no evidence of the shadowy deeds that had taken place just hours before in the dead of night.  Along the roadway, we stopped to climb up on the stone barriers intended to protect the mountainsides from careless drivers who would otherwise maneuver their luxury sedans off the precipice and light the flora ablaze as they tumbled headlong down the slope in an unquenchable fireball.  Hemmed in by the canyons, we photographed the tangled web of sciences in the valley below.  The air, resined of pine, circulated cleanly through our lungs.  A Common Black Hawk glided on the thermals above.  A Shorthorn Lizard sunned on the rocks beneath.  A gray Wall Jumping Spider ballooned past, navigating the Earth’s atmospheric electrical circuit.  In that instant, for just one brief moment, I began to consider something. Maybe it really is quite a thing, this improbable oasis Earth. Life has managed to completely overtake this planet.  It has learned to thrive amidst the elements, manipulating nature’s phenomena in order to perpetuate its own existence.  And, as this all carries on, as the necessary cycles perpetually begin and end, every single part of this planet has become reliant on every other.  It’s all one thing.  Every little animal in an ecosystem is important.  Every tiny plant is vital for it to work.


The northward passage forged ahead, ascending to the top of Mount Locke.  The observatory grounds were at rest, its geodesic domes closed up, its transient quarters abandoned.  There is a strange sort of peace to be found in places no longer inhabited, a sort of reverential stillness.  We roamed the pathways then climbed Mount Fowlkes for a view of the entire panorama.

In the clean air and absence of all sound, we watched as grey clouds began to crowd the once undisturbed space above.  Building themselves into ominous towers, the nimbus carried with them a chilling effect.  The rain clouds that now covered the heavens had robbed the desert of any light, leaving only a portentous air to settle in over the hills.  The irascible calls of the scrub jay had long died away. The gentle wind had ceased to rattle the limbs of the fragrant piñons.  Vegetation darkened to a dead grey. Mountains turned a drab slate-color, their slopes soon becoming amorphous. From deep in the earth, a roar began to rise.  Or, maybe it was reverberating from somewhere beyond the hills.  A mantle of dreariness enveloped the scene and I wished I had worn more rain-worthy boots. 

At first, tendrils of Virga reached downward, just brushing mid-sky.  We watched it form far out over the distant peaks then move closer, teasing the arid ground along the way.  Those lands, calling out for relief would remain unsatisfied. Then, at last, the rain came.  And when it did, it came in sheets.  We hurried back to the jeep and quietly watched the undulating walls blanket the mountainsides and the plains. 


On a desolate stretch of highway, just west of the town of Toyahvale, a one room cathedral sat nestled alone on the flatlands, her whitewashed exterior just visible among the vapors coming up from the desert floor.  Once a symbol of hope to the citizens of her parish, the long extinct mining colony of Calera, Mission Mary now stood as a pharos for weary travelers and forlorn drifters.  With a congregation consisting only of passersby, those on the way to somewhere else, her bell no longer sounded out across these lowlands.  Now, only the buzzing of Dog-Day Cicadas ringing away from the undergrowth kept these parts company.

AG knelt to study a line of rocks that outlined the structure’s foundation, each inscribed with the names of those who had already passed this way.  I stared out across a flood of Creosote Bush extending off for miles.  It ran until it was halted by the distant mountains punching up through the Earth’s crust.  There was no shelter from the sun here.  Only the tiny church provided any respite. 

Pushing open the wooden doors, we found a single room lined with rustic pews and a cross hanging above a pulpit.  Light pouring in at different points created a somewhat sentimental scene.  The noise of the cicadas had all but ceased, as if they no longer existed.  And, except for the occasional clatter of the building’s nooks trapping the breeze, the sound of the desert outside had been silenced.  We sat for a few moments, whispering in short sentences to observe the perceived veneration of the place, interrupted only by the creaking of the rafters above.  The things this building had seen down the years.  An image of this tiny chapel, empty, standing stoically as a thunderstorm grew on the horizon took precedence.  AG returned to the outside to photograph the landscape.  And, through the casements, I watched her for a few moments.  Reaching into my pocket to search for my lighter, I found nothing but a crumpled piece of yellowed magazine paper that had been torn from the pages of a 1961 Reader’s Digest.


28 November, 1960.  A West German observatory announced that it was receiving a strange, isolated signal on a Soviet space frequency, a transmission of a singular note from a renowned national symphony.  It would later be discovered to be a sort of synchronization cipher systematically linked between all Russian radio listening posts in preparation for launch.  At a point when the first station was shown to be at the ready for transmission the first note of the symphony was then sent in conjunction.  When the second was operational the first and the second notes were broadcast with the process continuing as such until the last station had been readied at which time the symphony was relayed in its entirety.  Days later, Achille and Giovanni Battista Judica-Cordiglia of the Torre Bert listening station in northern Italy picked up, in hand-keyed Morse code, three repetitions of a distress signal articulated as, S-O-S to the entire world, emanating from an unknown spacecraft which Doppler calculations confirmed to have almost no relative speed.  This would have then been interpreted as an indication of the trajectory of said spacecraft being positioned on a course moving away from the Earth.  These emissions were followed by an oral communication translated as:

----- Conditions growing worse.

----- Why don't you answer?

----- We are going slower... the world will never know about us.

The signal grew increasingly weaker and was not to be intercepted again.  Apparently, the brothers Battista Judica-Cordiglia had just recorded evidence of a manned Soviet spacecraft having inadvertently veered off course due to what would later be confirmed as a misfiring of the craft’s retrorockets which lead to its successive and permanent departure from the Earth's orbit.  Approximately two months later in February 1961, speculatively reported to be the 2nd or the 4th of the month, another incoming transmission was received, which experts interpreted, at the time, as the dying breaths of an unconscious man followed by a later signal from the same frequency construed by a cardiologist to be a failing human heartbeat.  In the course of the following years, these Cosmonauts, it was later revealed, were methodically erased from official Soviet pictures and descriptive materials of the national space exploration program, leading to all manner of speculation about these and other Russian astronauts whose histories were less than perfectly known.  If such reports are accurate then it would be conceivable that there exist long-dead Soviet spacemen hurtling silently through space in a metal casket at thousands of miles an hour - the victims of a Soviet space shot that went wrong.  Their bodies perfectly preserved by sub-zero temperatures, past scalding iron rain, lakes of methane, oceans of electrified hydrogen metal they hurtle, damned to the role of lonely wanderers in space for centuries to come.


I stood counting the number of shoes on my feet.  Years and years had passed, but I had seen this story once before.  Although I could recall neither the time nor the place, the haunting imagery was unforgettable.  And, the likelihood of it turning up in the desert seemed improbable. Tenuously clipped to the upper right corner of the page, a frame of medium format film depicted a small boy stood next to a balding man wearing a pressure suit. There was probably some profound meaning to it all but who has time for such things?


I turned to look at the rays of light slicing through the doorway and coming in through the windowpanes.  In that moment, directly overhead, our star was emitting a kilowatt of energy for every square meter of the Earth’s surface.  Every second, one quatuordecillion photons, give or take, were crashing into those bits of landscape all around that tiny church.  When they arrived in that valley, these particles were colliding with the earth, the scrub and the clay.  With the nitrogen, the oxygen, the argon and the carbon dioxide.  The scattering properties and spatial arrangement of every atom that, together, comprised everything around us determined precisely how the light should be absorbed or reflected back into our eyes.  Every instant, the frequency and amplitude of these light waves were causing our photoreceptors to convert them into electro-chemical impulses, producing the perpetual scenes that lay before us in that place.  The desert, the church, the paper and the girl, all being created with each passing second through these continual processes. From that empty desert plain to the Vostok prototype plunging hopelessly through the blackness of the cosmos above, these things were happening end over end, creating our brief segment along the arrow of time. Without these things, there would be only darkness. At every moment of life, the Universe is beautiful.  Maybe we should all be quiet and appreciate it.  Or, if anyone absolutely must speak, please do so quietly so we can all hear you. With that, I lit a candle, uttered the Traveler’s Prayer and made my way back into the desert.

Outside, I went ahead to start the Jeep.  AG wrote our names on a rock and placed it at the foot of the entrance.  We took one last look at Mission Mary.  Then, as Spiritualized’s Always Forgetting With You played softly on the radio, we made our way towards home.


Current Reading: Terre des Hommes, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry